El Chino Snack Bar
El Chino Snack Bar
ROBIE STREET'S SECRET AFTERHOURS PLACE
BY LAURA OAKLEY
PHOTOS MICHELLE DOUCETTE
"We always joke that you can tell your friends, but only the ones you really like. After all, we only have 28 seats.” Says Kaleigh Burns of the small-but-mighty tequila and snack bar, El Chino. She and partner Heman Lee have been running El Chino since they opened it in July 2016 adjacent to their all-breakfast joint Robie Street Station—another long-running, consistently busy Halifax mainstay. Lee is the chef, and Burns runs the front-of-house—they also do everything from minor building repairs to laundry. Best practices of running a business that Lee learned while working for his restaurateur father while growing up in Toronto.
El Chino’s location just at the corner of (and across the street from) the Halifax Common has helped earn them a stellar reputation and steady business in a super residential neighbourhood. Recently Burns was pleased to share that they, unlike almost every other restaurant, aren’t dealing with crippling staff shortages because they have nearly the same team members as when they opened Robie Street Station in 2014. (Staff work in both venues, which are physically attached.) These consistencies in concept, staff, service, and undoubtedly the food quality have made them a “sure thing” for their loyal customers.
A 28-seat snack bar focused on Mexican and Chinese street foods that continuously earns a spot on the 50 Best Places to Eat list speaks for itself. As for the concept, Burns describes it as “a tribute to the people who helped us get here.” Knowing from previous reports, Lee’s culinary influences, among many places, people and things, includes working for his father’s Chinese restaurant and eating staff meals made by Mexican co-workers during other cooking stints. Offering some of the most delicious snacks and street foods, Chinese and Mexican food lends perfectly well to tasty dishes you want to eat after dark at a tequila and cocktail bar.
You might wonder just how good the bar snacks are for El Chino to make our list again. You only need two hints: dumplings and tacos. Both dishes have stayed consistent since opening. Why mess with a good thing? The dumplings are “made in-house just like grandma used to make them,” says Burns. “These tiny pockets of delicacies are highly sought after for eat-in or [as a] frozen take-home item.” The savoury pork and Chinese chive dumplings come in a bowl with soy vinaigrette and are highly addictive. There are three kinds of tacos to choose from: crispy fish, pulled pork or the potato vegetarian option, always piled high with filling and the proper accoutrements. Plus, they make the tortillas in-house. Burns points out that their nachos have won a “best in the city” title from local food blogger and co-Curated Magazine contributor Lindsay Wickstrom’s website Eat this Town.
“We have kept a consistent food menu except for one or two items,” says Burns. A personal El Chino favourite, pork belly bao buns with hoisin Sriracha never disappoint. The tiny menu also offers simple chips and salsa, vegetarian empanadas, marinated cucumbers, and General Tao chicken wings. The ice cream sandwich (delightful) is a fried bao bun stuffed with vanilla ice cream, and the other dessert is a Mexican chocolate affogato (espresso poured on ice cream). This iteration uses spicy chocolate ice cream. Great idea.
As for the tequila program, Burns says: “We carry over 50 tequilas and mezcals at any given time. With regular additions, we keep our offerings fresh for even the regulars.” It’s something that sets them apart. “You can purchase each tequila by the ounce or as a flight. Bartenders are equipped to build flights designed based on the type of experience you wish to have,” says Burns, who mentions their mission of finding an enjoyable tequila for everyone—lousy college experience or not. Currently, El Chino is carrying one of the most expensive and rare tequilas available in the country. Purchasing it (by the bottle) comes with a private buy-out of the whole bar. “It is a bottle that is not meant to just be drank, but experienced,” says Burns.
For the record, the drink offering goes beyond the tequila selection and cocktail list, although they have understandably earned a reputation for serving one of the best margaritas in town. The cocktail list follows the overall theme by being heavily tequila and mezcal-focused and features Asian-influenced creations like the Shanghai Romance, which includes Jian Zhuang (a clear Chinese spirit) and ginger.
“Beyond the good food and personalized service, our space has a unique vibe,” says Burns of what keeps their regulars coming back. It does feel akin to a hole-in-the-wall joint you might stumble across in a big city. A bit anonymous—you have to know it’s there. Inside is simple, dark and rustic with a large, colourful dragon mural and mismatched hanging lights. The impressive tequila display catches the eye as neon hues light up the back bar. It’s no surprise El Chino has become an ideal spot for special events. “We like to make dreams come true,” says Burns, about accommodating the often uniquely themed parties. “We’ve hosted The Big Lebowski-themed birthday parties, Chinese New Year dinners, and most recently, a bachelorette party that was a bartending mixology class. We have so much fun,” says Burns.
With the food, drinks and staff apparently on lock, what does the future look like for Burns and Lee? “Chef and I are always on the hunt for new opportunities,” says Burns. “We have had a few plans that have come very close to fruition but nothing that has stuck… yet.” How coy. From previously published interviews, we know Lee has other ideas in the bank (did someone say Chinese barbecue), and given the strength of their current venues, I feel Burns and Lee could successfully pull off any new concept.
Consistency and reliability are essential when it comes to building a business for the long haul, one that becomes part of the city’s dining landscape. That’s what this team is all about. For that reason, I can’t wait to see what’s next. And I always look forward to a visit to El Chino for my favourite snacks.
El Chino is featured on our Quinpool Road walking tour, where the much sought-after Chinese Chive Dumplings and Classic Margarita appear!
