Pizza Game Strong

A LOOK AT FOUR UNIQUELY AWESOME HALIFAX PIZZERIAS

BY LAURA OAKLEY
PHOTOS MICHELLE DOUCETTE

Some pizzaiolos are forging new paths, while others double down on what they do best.

In Halifax, we are fortunate to have an abundance of stellar classic pizza places and several pizza-focused restaurants specializing in particular styles. By “classic,” I mean the kind of pizza you find at Halifax-based small chains and independent, single-location joints found here and across the province. Think King of Donair, Tony’s or Sicilian. Pizza corner style, if you will.

But as we all know, there’s plenty of variety in the Halifax pizza landscape. Type of oven, proprietary recipes (dough and sauce), cooking method, cultural inspiration and service style make for a range of pizza experiences.

In this piece, I share recent visits to a diverse quartet of local pizza restaurants. Some are well-established players; others are new to the game. What do they have in common? They’re all dead serious about pizza.

Morris East Pizzeria & Slice Shop

THREE MONGERS + PEAR

After 14 years in the pizza business, Jennie Dobbs knows what she’s doing. The owner of Morris East restaurant first blazed a trail in 2008 when she brought in an authentic, wood-fired pizza oven straight from Italy and popped it in a hole-in-the-wall on Morris Street, in the neighbourhood that would later be called SoMo. From there, it was full-on. She developed a menu of what some would call California-style pizzas using local Nova Scotian ingredients and quickly built a following based on the quality of the ingredients, the uniqueness of the pies, the unbelievable crust, and the wood-fired element. Plus, the ambience of the tiny restaurant always added to the experience. Dobbs expanded to Larry Uteck, in Bedford West, in 2014, then Vernon & Quinpool Road in 2018 to serve more residential areas—including her own West End neighbourhood. Having learned over the years on Morris Street that it turns out larger groups of people want to eat pizza together, she designed and built the other two locations with that in mind—larger tables and a flexible setup—and met that demand. After operating two large, busy restaurants for a few years, Dobbs decided to pass the torch at the original Morris Street location and sold it last year.

Now, with bigger kitchens and more room to grow, head chef Tim Andresen gets to play around with more than just pizza—although that is undeniably still the main focus. Both Morris East locations have starters, entrees, pasta and desserts.

We stopped in at the Vernon Street location on our pizza journey, which also houses a “slice shop” for quick to-go options on the side and soft-serve gelato. Once inside the modern-industrial yet comfortable dining room, we dig into a couple of the signature pizzas and sip some red wine. We’re having my personal favourite, the pear and prosciutto pizza, and I couldn’t be happier. For a quick refresher—Morris East’s Andresen won bronze in the International Division at the Las Vegas International Pizza Expo in 2015 with this creation. Blomidon Winery’s Baco Noir red wine poached pears, maple tarragon aioli, Urban Blue cheese from Halifax’s Blue Harbour Cheese, prosciutto, roasted shallots, and microgreens on a thin crust. Yes, it’s as good as it sounds—tangy, salty, peppery, and a bit sweet.

We also taste the “three mongers” pizza, a way-nicer version of a meat lover’s pizza. This one is tomato sauce-based, topped with chopped-up meatball, crispy, spicy soppressata, local fennel sausage, mozzarella and a drizzle of bbq sauce. It’s meaty and salty but just enough without being over-the-top, plus balanced nicely by the sweetness in the bbq sauce.

As for changes, the pizza style at Morris East isn’t going anywhere. What Dobbs is excited about most recently is her purchase of a pasta extruder for Vernon Street, meaning all kinds of pasta are made fresh in-house. She is also transforming the slice shop into a retail destination, offering fresh and frozen doughs, sauces, pasta, salads (and more). On top of all that—Dobbs is launching her own beverage company, producing hard cider spritzers, but that’s for another story (in this very issue). As long as the pear and prosciutto pizza remains, I’m happy.

Rinaldo's Italian American Specialties

PIZZA CON LIA + PIZZA SAMUELE

Rinaldo’s Italian American Specialities has been deep-rooted in family history since they opened their doors in 2017. Brothers Tony and Sam Rinaldo chose to follow in their father Salvatore’s footsteps—and if you’re from Halifax, I don’t need to tell you which Salvatore I mean. (And if you’re not familiar, well, in 1989, he opened and ran the famous Salvatore’s New York Pizza.) Salvatore Rinaldo was from Buffalo, New York, and according to Tony, “he spent time researching pizza crust recipes in New York City. Combining it with our grandmother’s tomato sauce, he opened the original Salvatore’s. These authentic family recipes are still what we use today at Rinaldo’s.”

The pizza is obviously New York-style, which typically means hand-tossed dough, thin-crust, and the basic toppings being tomato sauce and mozzarella cheese. (And if in New York, sized 18-to-24 inches and sold by the slice, folded in half to be eaten.) The toppings at Rinaldo’s are Italian-American-inspired with plenty of Italian-style cheeses, Italian sausage, and pepperoni they bring in directly from Buffalo. But there are some Canadian shout-outs on the menu—Hawaiian pizza and garlic fingers with donair sauce. As Curated’s editor-in-chief Alex Henden says, Tony has a “childlike enthusiasm” for making pizza—one of the rotating special pizzas is a recreation of a Big Mac, pickles and all.

We visit the original Windsor Street location (they opened a spot in Fairview in 2019, which does have dine-in but focuses more on takeout and delivery) to try the Pizza con Lia and Pizza Samuele. The Pizza con Lia, named after their sister, Lia Rinaldo, is also known as the meatball hero pizza—hero sandwiches are another cornerstone of Rinaldo’s offering. Taking the ingredients and turning them into a pizza was just an excellent idea. This tomato-based pizza has a sesame seed crust, mozzarella and Grana Padano cheeses, chopped-up meatballs, olives and red onion. Delicious. But I prefer the Pizza Samuele on this visit, which is really just a pepperoni pizza with the addition of roasted garlic and ricotta cheese. Roasted garlic adds a complex, caramelized, subdued garlic flavour and the creamy ricotta complements the hot, salty pepperoni (from Buffalo, New York) and zingy tomato sauce. So what’s the deal with this pepperoni from Buffalo? “We’ve been pushing to get Ezzo pepperoni here for a number of years,” says Tony. “I love the Buffalo-style cup and char pepperoni from time spent with family there.” He’s referring to how the sliced pepperoni bakes on top of the pizza; it burns charcoal black around the edges, develops in flavour intensity, and the edges curl up, creating a cup shape. (This pepperoni style is also a traditional topping for Detroit-style pizza.)

On that note, Detroit-style pizza has taken up permanent residence on the menu at Rinaldo’s. “Me and my brother Sam are obsessed with American regional pizza styles, and back in 2018, we came across a video of the Detroit-style pizza,” says Tony. “We ordered the pans from Detroit the next day and did extensive research and development before adding it to the menu.” Currently on offer is cheese, pepperoni and buffalo chicken in the Detroit-style. The day I stopped in a Detroit-style pierogi pizza was the feature. It’s safe to say the menu staples, based on Rinaldo family recipes, aren’t going anywhere—so if ingredients are like toys, I say, keep playing.

Lou Pécou Artisanal Pizza

DON CAMILLO + GARLABAN

“In Provence, lou pécou is the peduncle or stalk that holds a cluster of fruit,” says Cédric Toullec. “Our grandparents had a special way to pick and feel the pécou to know if the fruit or vegetable picked was local, ripe and fresh.” Toullec is the owner and pizzaiolo at Lou Pécou, a brand new pizza restaurant in Halifax’s north end, specializing in a French style called Classica. (Truly, can there ever be enough different styles of pizza? No.)

Toullec is from Marseille, France, where the Classica style is typical. “Pizza Classica is a part of my South of France culture. In Italy, you probably have the best Neapolitan pizzerias, but in the South of France, we prefer the Classica pizza. It’s crunchier and lighter, less doughy,” says Toullec. “It reminds me of the top of a baguette freshly baked.”

Being a huge fan of crispy, thin-crust pizzas, I was very excited when we stopped to see Toullec and try a couple of his creations. The restaurant is a simple, bright space with clean white walls, strung Edison light bulbs, potted herbs, and greenery-lined windows. Right in the centre, a massive round window with the Lou Pécou logo on it looks onto Cunard Street, with a view of the Halifax Armoury. You can easily see into the open kitchen where Toullec is building pizzas directly in front of his big Moretti Forni Italian deck oven. A small retail section with Italian and local food items sits near the entrance. It’s comfortable and bright—I like it here.

The menu is in two sections: vegetarian and non-vegetarian, each of which has equal real estate. Many pizzas have French-inspired, curious names, and they all sound delicious. “Inspirations can come from everywhere and everything. From a memory, a voyage, a movie, from looking at some pictures of my childhood,” says Toullec. “This is the case for the Garlaban [pizza]. My grandmother loved to cook gratin with broccoli and sausage with béchamel. She used to add some pecorino and Parmigiano on top of it when finances were good. If not, she used bread crumbs. She always had some rosemary, thyme, garlic, and of course, olive oil in her kitchen.”

The Garlaban is my kind of pizza. A white pizza with a béchamel base, fior de latte (fresh mozzarella), homemade spicy sausage, grilled rapini and a drizzle of thyme olive oil. When it comes out of the oven, shaved pecorino cheese is added. Even before I knew the story of its inspiration, it was one of my new favourites in the city. We also sample a red pizza, the Don Camillo, a delicious pizza with just mozzarella and Calabrese—a spicy, dried Italian sausage. Once out of the oven, it gets a dusting of shaved Parmigiano-Reggiano, honey, and that thyme olive oil. Super simple, and the crust is just excellent.

Toullec says pizza has dominated many of the best memories throughout his life, so he chose to open a pizza restaurant. From eating anchovy pizza from the food trucks in small villages in the South of France to working in pizzerias in the French Caribbean in his twenties—pizza for him is “all about memories and emotions.” Luckily for us, Toullec’s wife moved to Halifax over a decade ago to study at NSCAD and fell in love with it. She insisted they settle here to start their family. “Today, I clearly do not regret this choice. Nova Scotians have been amazing to us since we opened the pizzeria,” says Toullec.

All I can say is try a pizza Classica as soon as possible.

G-Street Pizza

CHICKEN ALFREDO + DETROIT-STYLE DONAIR

Named after its home on busy North End artery Gottingen Street, G-Street Pizza landed on the scene in 2019, offering something a bit different—a menu accommodating various dietary concerns and promises of an inclusive atmosphere.

The pizza on the core menu is described as Italian-style, but the dough and sauce are similar to what I call Nova Scotian-style pizza. However, the toppings at G-Street are more refined than anything in a traditional pizza and donair joint.

Their location on the recently-dubbed “vegan row” is not lost on G-Street owners, brothers Moe and Chadi Al-Haj, who have prioritized serving the vegan community (rare for a pizzeria). “It has definitely made our fan base grow having so many different menu options,” says Chadi. At G-Street, there are ample vegan, Halal and gluten-friendly options. Any pizza can substitute for a cauliflower crust, and there’s a dedicated vegan section on the menu.

Another location trying its hand at the Detroit-style pie, G-Street, offers eight different options and sources their steel pans straight from Motor City. We stop by specifically for the Halifax-meets-Detroit mash-up: A Detroit-style donair pizza. The pie has a base of donair sauce, topped with donair meat, mozzarella, tomatoes, onions and jalapeños. The crust doesn’t disappoint; it’s thick, with super crusty edges and fantastic texture. It’s a hefty pie, and it’s served with more donair sauce on the side for dipping. It’s delicious, Canadian-American goodness. I can only eat one piece.

We also try a G-Street signature pizza called the chicken Alfredo, which has an Alfredo sauce base with chicken, mushrooms, and shredded mozzarella. It’s finished with freshly shaved parmesan cheese, sea salt, cracked black pepper and an Alfredo sauce swirl. It’s creamy, cheesy, heavy and tasty—another very substantial pizza, great for sharing.

The menu at G-Street goes far beyond a typical pizzeria, and they offer direct online ordering and delivery. Sandwiches and burgers, including plenty of plant-based options, donairs and appetizers like wings and jalapeño poppers, all make an appearance. A few kinds of poutines, salads and even pasta are on offer. While the delivery business is big, G-Street has a very comfortable and stylish interior for dine-in, thoughtfully designed by professionals from local furniture and design store Attica. Local beer and cider by the can or bottle, and a great little wine list, make G-Street a fantastic neighbourhood spot with something for everyone.

Pizza Game Strong